[quote=”1bassleft”]Because of the age of the guitar, I was assuming that the MOP is celluloid, rather than vinyl. It can shrink with age, so have a look to see if it will go back without leaving a gap. I’m really none too sure that I’d risk cyanoacrylate glue on old celluloid, although there are no surrounding finish areas to worry about. I did a quick webbage (seeing as I completely pantsed my top-of-head posting on pups) on glueing loose celluloid binding etc. They all came up as a job for wood glue, although I didn’t specifically see a “fer Gawd’s sake don’t use superglue” quote either.[/quote]

😯 i think you have ‘over egged’ the pudding Bass, if it shrinks and comes out with age, stick it back in with superglue again!!

Because of the age of the guitar, I was assuming that the MOP is celluloid, rather than vinyl. It can shrink with age, so have a look to see if it will go back without leaving a gap. I’m really none too sure that I’d risk cyanoacrylate glue on old celluloid, although there are no surrounding finish areas to worry about. I did a quick webbage (seeing as I completely pantsed my top-of-head posting on pups) on glueing loose celluloid binding etc. They all came up as a job for wood glue, although I didn’t specifically see a “fer Gawd’s sake don’t use superglue” quote either.

Are you going for the Standard PVA glue? or the waterproof stuff?
Dr Robert from guitarist mag would only recomend superglue by the way.
But it’s your guitar.
Of course you could try option 3, Bluetak.
And if you have a blue peter badge you would have already tried the
double sided sticky tape.

Have you listened to that French guys Stones song??

Speaking of Framus guitars, my wife brought one back from France in 1972. It was a pretty nice accoustic, steel strings, and an odd nut configuration, but I don’t recall what that was, exactly. It was new when she bought it, and we ended up selling it for about $100 in 1973 (hey, we were newly married, and sometimes we couldn’t afford to feed the cat, let alone ourselves).

It was definitely a guitar that was never seen in the US. I’ll bet someone has a real “conversation piece” today!

Mother of Pearl (sometimes irreverantly called mother of toilet seat). I don’t think cyanoacrylate (superglue) will harm it (definitely won’t harm the neck) but you could use wood glue to be safe. The trick is to get flat, even pressure over it so that it doesn’t rise up somewhere, and wipe off any XS before it sets.

Ask the audience or phone a friend?
Ok, im going with Superglue, its what i would stick a new Nut down with,
plastic resin on wood, your inlay is crying out for a bit of Bostik.
Get your coat on, and get straight down to B+Q.

I went in there last week for some contact glue, i got a large tin of EvoStick, i needed it to stick some foam on to a pedalboard, and the sales lady refused to give me a plastic bag with it!!
whats that all about?

good luck tim.

If you do take out the old nut a good tip is to cut around the nut with a craft knife, this will stop the laquer splitting out when you remove it, you should get a block of wood and push it up against the nut (fretboard side) and give it a sharp tap with a hammer knocking the nut backwards towards the head, the new one can then be replaced using instant glue.

If you do lift out the old nut, I found graphite to be the easiest to work with when making a new one. A very handy tech and all-round pleasant guy I’ve dealt with has produced a handy calculator for string-spacing on a new nut. His name’s Steve, in the ‘burbs of Manchester, and here’s the link to his nuts 😯

http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/onlinetools.html

Tim, there are Frami semi basses with the “Bill Wyman” connection that people ask money for. Whether they get it is a moot point. Anyhoo, can I ask a few Qs?

Are they the original tuners, and you just removed a couple? I really, really would be surprised if they’re the original tuners. If they’re not, who cares about changing the nut? You’re right, it needs to be done toot dasweet to play as a bass. The current spacing is awful. If youi want to re-sell as an acoustic 6er in the future, I doubt if a replaced nut would be the biggest issue.

Hi Tim,

The guitar looks to me like a mid 50’s model. I have a picture of a mid 50’s Sorella (5/59 model) that looks very similar except the Sorella has a cut-away. So, my guess is that it is either a Rosita model 5/58 or a Tango (5/57) but I can’t know for sure since I don’t have a picture of either of these 2 guitars.

Anyway, I say don’t hurt it. Value at best is probably $400-$500 USD since it will have nonoriginal parts, but it definately looks worth restoring. If you want something acoustic to carry around the house and bonk on get a 60’s Kay or Truetone archtop for $70 and make whatever mods you want. BTW, thanks for visiting VintAxe. SB

4-string? Out of interest, how are you tuning that? Is it like a tenor guitar tuning?