Buying a Gibson Les Paul Classic, Please Help!

Hey,

I went to guitar center and wanted to buy a gib LP classic (much better than standards in my opinion haha) anyway, they dont have any in stock and told me that i would have to pay in full, then they would ship one to my house. i wanted vintage sunburst but all tehy have is lightburst. Two questions...one more important than the other.. first is this safe to do, buying a guitar in full, with no refund ability, without playing it at all? i know it sounds crazy but it seems the only option. Can factory set up be that bad that I might get a lemon? And second, how do you owners of lightburst gibsons like the looks of them? Its hard to get a good feel for it in pictures. how do they look as they fade over time? Thanks for your guys help!

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.

Another way of looking at it in practical terms. If you want to know what is value for money, go to a 2nd hand store. Look at the stock an see what holds it's value. Ask the staff as to what turns over and what gathers dust. I'm willing to stand corrected but my experience is that Gibson / Fender always hold value and always sell.

Agree previous . Nothing screams with more tone than a cranked EL34 Tube Amp or is cleaner/brighter than a 6L6 amp. The Amp is as important as the guitar as are the speakers - try using the amp with a different cabinet. I acquired a 16 ohm 12 inch 30 watt late 60's Rola speaker in its own cabinet. I used it with my 60 watt marshall JCM TSL. Being careful not to overdrive - it was an entirely different and beautiful sound.

One thing I do not understand is the guys with 100watt plus amps and 4x12 cabinets etc working pubs and small / medium venues. I have never needed more than arround a 50 watt combo (and yes I do play loud some times). If the venue is bigger mike or DI to the P.A. (if comparing Tube to Solid State multiply SS output by arround 150% to get equivalent). Most Tube combo's arround this size weigh about 25kgs/ 55 lbs. This is as much as you will want to carry - much heavier at the end of the night. However, hats off to those sucessful enough to play bigger venues

good post enash, one thing i would say is that you get a bit more 'headroom' on a 100watt amp, if you need a cleaner sound then the higher output amp will definatly help there.
i would have to disagree on the comparision between tranistor amp and valve amp loudness, 100watts is 100watts whether it is coming out of a tranny amp or a valve amp, you will get the same decibels out of each.

Point taken Mr Lee

I should have qualified my comment on Tube vs Solid State. In clean sound they are comparable. In overdriven sound a valve transitions into overdrive in an "analogue way". Transitors "peak" and "cut off" in a "digital" way. I lack a better technical descritpion - but lsiten to the two. You can drive a 50 watt Tube amp real hard and it will still "sing". Drive a 50 watt transistor amp hard and it will hurt your ears.

In technically measurable terms a watt is a watt. In terms of sound percieved there is a big diference - at least to my ears. But if there was one right answer we could all have one guitar and amp soviet style and where would the fun be in that.

Can any body recommend a windows based software for reading guitar / bass tab / midi files. I have looked at music time but I am totallly confused by the enourmous number of things available. I am looking for the commonly used application.

Cheers

i agree, valves sing when they break, the distortion is harmonious and a joy to listen to, the hotter they get the hotter the tone gets, transistor amps 'clip' and sound awful, the 2 sounds just dont compare.
Sorry cant help you with the TAB software.

Hey, well guitarcenter called, they had a classic in lightburst that just came in, beautiful guitar. so now im a happy owenr, thanks for your help.

you are probably only the 10 millionth happy customer with a Les Paul, Gibson?? you cant go wrong, can you?

Good luck to you. You will not be sorry.

Anybody got an opinion / experience with after market coil splitting on a les paul. I am thinking of the push / pull volume knob type not the horrible swithces on the pickup. I know a luthier I trust to do it but I am unsure. I currently use a tele (86 Jap Fender with EMG active pickups and strat style saddles) which is very nice but I get sick of swapping. Especially when the singer changes the set list on a whim I start to look very indecisive. My theory so far is the right tool for the job and don't fix what aint broke.

enash, far be it for me..., don't shoot me, I'm only the bass player...

In other words, ignore this stuff if you like. The push-pull coil tap makes sense because it's reversible and leaves no extra holes. A good solder-monkey can do it, if luthier man wants silly money. Specify that the original work is de-soldered, not snipped, and have the original pot bagged and given back to you. These things are important if you sell on.

Assuming you're thinking of the bridge pup, but have a look at guitar-electronics.com for any conceivable.

Thanks - I have been told that the Ceramic 496R and 500T pickups have two conductor wiring on the factory fitted classics which I believe means no easy way of Coil tapping - any thoughts out there.

Also, on changing set up. I have tried bringing the strings over the top of the stop bar rather than through which required lowering the stop bar to get enough fall from the bridge to hold the strings in place. I have no other reason to do this other than to try it. Some folks have claimed that this creates smoother/ less fall and longer length from bridge to stopbars which lead to lower string tension. I can't see any logic in this - but I do feel there is less tension (easier bending) and a slightly brighter tone. Am I deceiving myself?.

Hmmm, AFAIK, four-conductor is needed to do a SC/HB switch. I'm not familiar with the pups and I wouldn't fancy a dis-assemble, for sure. It must be do-able, but I'm not sure how much more complicated. Presumably, the 'hot' wire is both coils, in parallel, combined. I'm on the outer limits so I won't suggest more - maybe some proper solder-monkeys will chime in? Otherwise, your luthier techy is worth asking for a quote.

Post new comment

The content of this field is kept private and will not be shown publicly.
CAPTCHA
This question is for testing whether you are a human visitor and to prevent automated spam submissions. Do not include any spaces in your answer.
Image CAPTCHA
Copy the characters (respecting upper/lower case) from the image.

Contact | Advertise | Contents | Privacy Policy | Forum

This site is published by Hitsquad Pty Ltd. Copyright © 1999 - 2017 , All Rights Reserved.