ohms, ohms, ohms

I have SS stereo head 4/8 ohm. Would the left and right channel each run at 4 ohms, so an 8 ohm stereo cabinet would be needed?

Does a 4 ohm stereo cabinet mean 4 ohms per side and thus an 8 total ohm load, or 4 ohms total? I haven't bought a
cab before so I want to get it right and get the most out my amp.
>
> The head says it can do 2X4 ohms = 2x120 watts and 2x8 ohms = 2x100 watts. Running 2x4 ohms would mean an 8 ohms total load, right?

I'm probably going to get an Avatar, and am unsure if I need the the 4 or 8 ohm stereo.

Thanks to all those much smarter than me (i.e. everybody)

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Twizza, I've just got back from my hols, so this is off the top of my head. I'll need to look at the Randall site, and Avatar.

Basically, a SS head will put out more vol if the cabs are of lower impedance. If you were home-making a 4x12" (as your previous posts), I would parallel two of the G12Ts to one input (4ohms) and parallel the other pair (also 4ohms) to another input. Your stereo out would then put out the max vol. The Avatar cab you mention would be best as 4ohm version, but please post up the model numbers and I'll happily have a look at the sites. Both Randall and Avatar's tech support should also reply to your emails quickly enough.

BTW, as I understand it, two 4ohm cabs in stereo is effectively 2ohm bridged mono, but my head is airline-fuzzy 3am, and I've been wrong before. I'll attempt cool reflection later.

Twizza, I had a look around but I'm confused about whether you're looking for a cab for your RG200 combo, or for a different head (the 200 stereo chorus?). Please post up all the relevant model numbers you're interested in. Avatar should be able to direct you to what you want, though - it's their line of business. HST, I'm happy to chip in with an op if you'd like one.

thanks for the replies. I ended up sending back the the combo and got the RG200 SC head. ($360 from Zzounds.com, was too good a deal to pass up) I was looking at either the Marshall 1960B cab if I can get a good enough deal, or a 4 ohm stereo cab from Avatar. The 1960, if run in stereo, would be 2x8 ohms, whereas the Avatar would be 2x4 ohms. I would get a little more juice out of the head that way 2x4 ohm = 2x120 Watts/ 2x8 ohm = 2x100 wastts. How significant would be the difference? I've been told by some that SS work better at 8 ohms insted of 4 ohms, as there is less distortion (the bad kind). The Randall guy has not been that helpful. I am also thinking of gettin an empty cab and speakers and wiring it my self. I know I could wire two 8 ohm speaks in parallel to get a 4 ohm load. Do that to each side and I get a 4 ohm stereo cab, right? I see some cheap cabs on ebay, but I'd rather not have plywood. Birch and maple are the way to go it seems. I've also seen some MDF particle board ones, which I'm not so sure about. When it comes it down to it (which it always does) it seems I can't get much of a better deal than from Dave at Avatar.

I'm listening to Dire Straits "Brothers in Arms" right now. Knophler rules..

Twizza, thanks for the details (and I'm glad the combo got resolved). Here's some late-night ramblings from a bassman...

Although I don't have Avatar cabs, I hear very good things from The Bottom Line forum about Dave. You will, most likely, get more useful ops from him than me, f'r'instance. The 1960, OTOH, is an off-the-shelf Marshall cab and I bet you get little pre-purchase support compared with Avatar.

OK, cab construction. Absolutely nothing wrong with birch-faced plywood. Good compromise of lightish weight, rigidity and the right sound. Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF) weighs a ton and comprises floor-scrapings held together by resin-yack. You can go the whole hog and look into Thiele-Small parameters (I can't even remember the correct spelling) but good cab makers have already done this.

Secondly, the stereo thing. The Randall has a stereo chorus. I'm not that big-dealed on the usefulness of stereo chorus (maybe for Def Leppard?) but remember that a stereo speaker cab is only as good as the separation. If you have a 4x12", even wired up separately for stereo, it won't sound much different from mono. Imagine your hifi with the speakers stuck together - not very stereo.

The 4ohms allows the max possible output. I'm surprised at how conservative the claimed increase is (120W vs 100W) so I'd guess 'bad' distortion is not an issue. I'm not over-keen on your previous advice. The 8ohm would only sound better if a lower impedance were stretching things and you were diming it. Doubt very much if the slight increase in W for 4ohm makes things pear-shaped.

In all humility, though, I think you'll get more sense bouncing this off Dave at Avatar. FWIW, I think those cabs look cool and are reasonably priced. Choice of drivers, too - well worth sending another e-nquiry.

Thanks for the reply

I wasn't necessarily balls out for a stereo head. It just happened to be about $80 dollars cheaper ($40 less and free shipping which would have been another $40) than the same mono version (the RG200 G2). Anothe quick question. If I ended up finding a good deal on a mono cab, I would bridge the two L and R (let' say the 4 ohm) outputs with a Y cable. Would I need an 8 ohm cab, or would the impedence actually go to 2 ohms? If so I would then bridge the L/R 8 ohm outputs. This all purely speculatory, of course.

AFAIK, stereo 4ohms can be bridged to 2ohms mono (2x8ohms bridged to 4ohms mono). A search around should confirm/rubbish my op. I do get these things wrong sometimes as the lateness hits me (ie, my flimsy knowledge heads South). Hope this helps, but do check first.

hello all

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