Great to hear NewGuitar. I definitely think the Washburn was the right purchase for you and anyone else in Newy’s position should take note of your enjoyment from it.

Sometimes guitars picked up in store sound a little nicer to begin with because they’ve been setup and tinkered with before sale. That’s unlikely to happen at a warehouse from one of the online stores. It’s a pleasant benefit for new guitarists when they buy at brick and mortar.

Nevertheless, ordering online can save cash and the sound is still going to be the same at the end of the day.

[quote=”1bassleft”]Firstly, I’m glad that newg07 found the advice helpful and is really getting into the Washburn. All the best for 2008 😀

Secondly, just as happy to read that CAbeginner found the thread useful. It’s always a bit daunting getting an instrument without knowledge or useful friends/family. First off, are you sure? Try a “does anybody play guitar?” at your works canteen or out for a drink with friends. You never know, somebody you trust may have a hobby unknown to you.

If that fails, here’s a bit of general advice based on my exp getting a trumpet for my son. None of us could blow a note but we got the (very cheap and good value) Stagg without any major drama. First, you need a bit of research and you’ve already done that. All of the dreadnoughts discussed in this thread are capable of playing nicely; I don’t think any will sound like lard. Your main worry is if the one in the shop has taken a knock or if it’s been set up by the gormless apprentice who’s already late for lunch.

I’m assuming you’re in California; I was wondering if you were thinking of starting straight away with a guitar teacher or trying a bit of strumming for yourself first. If the former, then do what I did with the trumpet. Buy it with the (written, if necessary) proviso that you take it back for a full refund if your teacher says it’s a dog. If you’re really, really on your own; here’s a few tips I can think of. Others might add to them.

The “mom and pop” shop selling acoustics is likely to have them better set up than the big chainstores in your area. The drawback is that the small independents often charge full RRP whereas Musician’s Friend and the like have heavy discounts. Either way, decide on the acoustics you’re interested in before entering. I say this because some salestypes see you as a mark, don’t have that guitar in stock anyway and spin you a “oh, we had loads of trouble with those. Switched to the Nungai D20 which is only $40 more and twice as good” story. I’ve had this happen to me with hifi separates before I realized what a fool I’d been. Use the “I’m OK just for now” line with salestypes unless and until there is a problem getting them off their wallhooks.

Things to look for are any cracks in the finish, especially if they appear to be going into the wood. Binding (usually white, around body and neck edges); is it lifting anywhere? Starting at the bottom end, look at the bridge. Is the rosewood lifting from the guitar surface? Do the strings sit nicely on the ivoroid saddle or are there nasty looking chips? As those strings go up the neck, do they stay inside the width of it – I’ve seen bad ones that don’t. Do the strings sit nicely in the grooves of the nut at the end of the neck? Do the tuners resist very gentle turning pressure (good) or do they swing 180 degrees if blown upon (bad)?

If you can, without attracting too much attention, try the guitar for feel; preferably sitting or at least able to bend one leg at right angles. The “classical” position is to have the rounded cutout resting on your LEFT thigh (assuming you’re a right hander) but many like the rockier-pose of resting on the right thigh. Make sure that both seem OK. Get your hand around the neck near the 1st fret. I know you’re new, but try holding down strings with some fingers while the thumb’s on the back of the neck. See if another guitar feels more comfortable if it’s really hard.

Another thing to quickly try is action and intonation. See if you can hold down the thickest string in the space on the fingerboard before the first fret. Does it buzz no matter how hard you try? hmmm. Now try it with the same string in the space after the doubledotted fret. Does it sound an octave higher or is it sharp/flat? Is it ridiculously hard to press down here, because the string is like a half-inch off the fingerboard? That can indicate bad action or intonation, but it’s difficult to be sure because absolute beginners have trouble holding down strings to start with. You could also try a very gentle strum of all strings (of course, it may be slightly out of tune) to get an idea of the guitar’s tone.

One Important Last Thing

Do not get pressured into making a purchase there and then just because some salestype is hanging over you all the time. Take time to go home and re-examine your gut feelings. If you have to, use the cover story that you were meant to be joined by your experienced-guitarist friend but he called it off at the last minute. You’re just getting a feel of the ones he suggested to save time when you next come in with him :wink:[/quote] 😯

Back to resources for learning, I had a look at the “smart guy reviews” website that’s sometimes advertized here, and a few others. A lot of hefty recommendations for “Learn and Master Guitar” which is not so much an online course as a whole-kaboodle set of DVDs, booklet, email and forum support. The only criticism it ever gets is from pretty advanced players who didn’t learn much new. Beginners and intermediates all 5* rate it. Never seen it myself and it’s an eye-watering price; even with a three-day sale at the moment reducing the price to $149
http://www.learnandmasterguitar.com/three_day_sale.htm

Mustard mitt, Music Master Pro is megacheap by comparison for a one-off $30. I had the great misfortune to click on Jay Dynasty’s (whattaname) clips of his bass playing; surprisingly turgid and with the most appalling tone, to boot. At least his guitar clips sound like he can play. The only problem with strictly online methods is if, like me, you tend to compute in a cramped, disorganized mess of an office room, it’s not the ideal place to be practising (note to Jay’s website manager; “practice” is a noun and “practise” is a verb and, also, you don’t “imply” the best methods – you “employ” them).

Firstly, I’m glad that newg07 found the advice helpful and is really getting into the Washburn. All the best for 2008 😀

Secondly, just as happy to read that CAbeginner found the thread useful. It’s always a bit daunting getting an instrument without knowledge or useful friends/family. First off, are you sure? Try a “does anybody play guitar?” at your works canteen or out for a drink with friends. You never know, somebody you trust may have a hobby unknown to you.

If that fails, here’s a bit of general advice based on my exp getting a trumpet for my son. None of us could blow a note but we got the (very cheap and good value) Stagg without any major drama. First, you need a bit of research and you’ve already done that. All of the dreadnoughts discussed in this thread are capable of playing nicely; I don’t think any will sound like lard. Your main worry is if the one in the shop has taken a knock or if it’s been set up by the gormless apprentice who’s already late for lunch.

I’m assuming you’re in California; I was wondering if you were thinking of starting straight away with a guitar teacher or trying a bit of strumming for yourself first. If the former, then do what I did with the trumpet. Buy it with the (written, if necessary) proviso that you take it back for a full refund if your teacher says it’s a dog. If you’re really, really on your own; here’s a few tips I can think of. Others might add to them.

The “mom and pop” shop selling acoustics is likely to have them better set up than the big chainstores in your area. The drawback is that the small independents often charge full RRP whereas Musician’s Friend and the like have heavy discounts. Either way, decide on the acoustics you’re interested in before entering. I say this because some salestypes see you as a mark, don’t have that guitar in stock anyway and spin you a “oh, we had loads of trouble with those. Switched to the Nungai D20 which is only $40 more and twice as good” story. I’ve had this happen to me with hifi separates before I realized what a fool I’d been. Use the “I’m OK just for now” line with salestypes unless and until there is a problem getting them off their wallhooks.

Things to look for are any cracks in the finish, especially if they appear to be going into the wood. Binding (usually white, around body and neck edges); is it lifting anywhere? Starting at the bottom end, look at the bridge. Is the rosewood lifting from the guitar surface? Do the strings sit nicely on the ivoroid saddle or are there nasty looking chips? As those strings go up the neck, do they stay inside the width of it – I’ve seen bad ones that don’t. Do the strings sit nicely in the grooves of the nut at the end of the neck? Do the tuners resist very gentle turning pressure (good) or do they swing 180 degrees if blown upon (bad)?

If you can, without attracting too much attention, try the guitar for feel; preferably sitting or at least able to bend one leg at right angles. The “classical” position is to have the rounded cutout resting on your LEFT thigh (assuming you’re a right hander) but many like the rockier-pose of resting on the right thigh. Make sure that both seem OK. Get your hand around the neck near the 1st fret. I know you’re new, but try holding down strings with some fingers while the thumb’s on the back of the neck. See if another guitar feels more comfortable if it’s really hard.

Another thing to quickly try is action and intonation. See if you can hold down the thickest string in the space on the fingerboard before the first fret. Does it buzz no matter how hard you try? hmmm. Now try it with the same string in the space after the doubledotted fret. Does it sound an octave higher or is it sharp/flat? Is it ridiculously hard to press down here, because the string is like a half-inch off the fingerboard? That can indicate bad action or intonation, but it’s difficult to be sure because absolute beginners have trouble holding down strings to start with. You could also try a very gentle strum of all strings (of course, it may be slightly out of tune) to get an idea of the guitar’s tone.

One Important Last Thing

Do not get pressured into making a purchase there and then just because some salestype is hanging over you all the time. Take time to go home and re-examine your gut feelings. If you have to, use the cover story that you were meant to be joined by your experienced-guitarist friend but he called it off at the last minute. You’re just getting a feel of the ones he suggested to save time when you next come in with him 😉

So I have been reading through these posts as they come and I have a few questions. Like NewGuitar07, I am looking to pick up an acoustic guitar. I am a begnner, and am in the process of researching some stuff. All your replies have been pretty helpful.
I don’t have any friends or family who play the guitar so I will have to go it alone when going to buy one. I was curious if there was anything I should look or listen for when trying to pick one out. From what I have been reading, i need to play the guitar, listen to it, see how it feels…but as I am not familiar with any of this, I am afraid of getting stuck with something crappy.

any advice would be much appreciated!

Well, the BEST guitar for a beginner, would be the most expensive quality guitar you can get, yet this is not in the buget of most beginning guitarists. At the same time, you have to take into consideration of what you want to spend then go into a music store and try the various guitars. It is important to not only have a quality sounding instrument, but one that plays well. The look of the guitar, unless that is important to you, should be last on your list. The reason I would suggest that you try the instrument, is that even less expensive guitars can sometimes, depending on a lot of chance can sound great and some expensive guitars can also sound bad for the same reason. It is not usual that you would buy and expensive guitar and it sounds bad, but it could happen. This is why it is really important to try it out. AT the same time, as beginners are unsure of what to look for in a good guitar, it would be wise to try to find someone that know a little bit about the instrument to go with you and possibly try the guitars for you. Hope that helps!

Cool stuff.

I’ll try and put together a list of free resources for learning sometime this week. I know I said I’d do it last week, but yeah…. anyone, feel free to drop your fav freebie sites.

I will try and put a list of online guitar instruction websites together. It will be helpful.

In the meantime, check out one of GSite’s sponsors, http://www.jamplay.com/

$19.95P/M

I’m not familar with Music Master Pro, but it does look okay.

I personally think a larger selection of pure guitar lessons is the better choice though.

WorkShopLive is also another choice.

A sound choice of guitar and an even better way of getting it. Going into a real shop with an experienced player to give you his op is a lot better than click-and-hope. Glad to know you’ll keep us posted on what you get 🙂

Cool, let us know how you go. By all means, stick around and keep posting as well. 🙂

MF’s summaries are a bit innaccurate and you have to check the individual specs. All but the Fender have a solid spruce top (also, Lee is not the only guitarist I know who tells me Fender acoustics are variable).

I include the Dean because, although I don’t know it and their electrics range from good to so-so, this acoustic has (apart from the solid top) Grover tuners (nice hardware; you have to get a Washburn D30S to get Grovers) and a piezo bridge. I don’t know if you’d want to plug into an amp at some point but, if so, this may be a plus.

For a beginner guitar, an Epi acoustic would be okay I’d think. For $169.99, the AG 200 isn’t that bad a deal.

What about an Epi Hummingbird? Sure we open up a whole new price range. But that’s the fun part.

From 1basslefts list at MF, i would not go for Fender or Epiphone, ive heard too many bad ones, Fenders are very hit or miss, play one and it sounds like a dream, and the next one is a duffer.
I never have liked Epiphone acoustics, although the spec on that one looks OK apart from a suspect laminate top, laminate is ok if you have an electro acoustic, (pickup system onboard the guitar which allows you to plug it into a PA or Amp) but the cedar/spruce solid top plays far better acoustically.
I would drop Bass’s choice of Takamine for the same reason, the laminate top i find not as tonal as a solid top, (The Takamine i advised you on was a solid spruce top).
I know nothing about ‘Dean’ acoustics so i can’t comment, that leaves your original 2nd choice, the more expensive Washburn, with hard case.
I’d go for that one.
Leave the Mahogany top Washburn.
I told you a couple of people would reply………eventually. 😆

1b’s advice to maybe spend a bit extra at a guitar shop who will set it up properly is something to take note of.

Otherwise, I’d take the Washburn off that list.

newg, first of all I have to say my advice comes not from a great acoustic player (I’m not). My interest is in woods and hardware, if you like “what am I getting for my money?”

The D100DL seems, on the face of it, to be a lot of dreadnought for the money. I absolutely and totally agree with the opinion of spending this sort of money on a no-gimmicks, decent starter rather than those “packs” with free strap, plectrum, booklet and other rubbish that are worthless and detract from the main instrument (some laminated cardboard, Plasticene-tunered cack to make up the profit margin). It’s way ahead of those, but it’s something I’d prefer to hear before buying. Mahogany back, sides and top is a bit unusual. It’s a fairly dense, close grained and oily wood so I would expect it to be warmer (bassier) and a bit more compressed than its (brighter, spruce-topped) competitors. Not worse; just noticeably different, I’d’ve thought.

I took a little time on a comparison of the dreads (I’m assuming that the dread size suits you, and a piezo pickup for amplification isn’t a major issue – going by your two top choices) on Musician’s Friend. I looked at the price range from just above the D100DL to the D10S and drew up this list of likelies:

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/compare?base_pid=515152&base_pid=513903&base_pid=516028&base_pid=516299&base_pid=519386

for the record, Cort acoustics in the price range don’t seem to be stocked by MF. I’m not going to pretend that I’m an expert but, purely from the raw materials, I’d make the D10S the standard to judge others by. It’s also a dread that has sold in HUGE numbers and received excellent reviews even at its higher price. Until fairly recently, MF was one of the few that offered it at $250 but now many do. I suggest trying one for real in your local (if they don’t stock a D10S I’d be surprised).

The only crit I do see regularly is that the OEM strings are rubbish. That’s a matter of a few bucks. If you don’t like eBay (and I can understand your feeling), then bear in mind that saving $20 by buying an acoustic by mail-order isn’t always a good idea either. Too many variables; does it sit right, does your hand wrap around the neck and feel comfortable etc etc? Trying a real guitar in a real store may not be much pricier and the price could include real benefits like someone’s actually set it up, instead of just running a knife over the boxtape. Maybe they’ll offer to re-string it with some nice wire at parts cost only. Talk to them, see what they say (and try some other guitars in the price range, of course).

I seem to have missed this thread… but I had this just discussion on the weekend re beginner acoustics. We both decided on Cort being an ideal beginner choice with room to develop.

Now I dunno what sort of budget you have, but I’d stay away from bottom of the barrel priced acoustics even for a newbie. They are fine for bulk purchases at schools and what not, but you can do better if you go a little higher.

Or Lee offers good advice re the eBay route. It just takes a little bit more time and that extra bit of research.

Come on people CHIP IN!!
Sorry about this Newguitar07 there are usually a few others about.

Heres my opinion, if you are going to spend up to $250 then spend it on a used guitar, get one on ebay, you will save half your money.
a recent example here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/rare-WASHBURN-D10-acoustic-GUITAR-case-d10st-d10s_W0QQitemZ300163331189QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33032QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Ive read some good reviews on this one:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-TAKAMINE-G340SC-ACOUSTIC-GUITAR-279-BEST-OFFER_W0QQitemZ190114153788QQihZ009QQcategoryZ33030QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

Takamine are good for beginners as they tend to have a low action (string height) makes for easier playing on the fingers, this one has no pickup inside, so its a plain old acoustic, again its got the solid spruce top, mahogany back, sides and neck, and a rosewood fingerbaord.

Wait for others on her to comment before you buy, but for me the 2nd guitar looks far better than the first.
Solid spruce top, Mahogany back, neck, and sides and rosewood fingerboard is a classic combination of woods.
The first one has a Laminated? Mahogany top, im not sure about Mahogany for a top, Spruce is much more resonant.
Plus you get a hard case with the 2nd one, and the 2nd one looks the nuts. (IMHO).

Im sure there will be lots of other comments.
You could also check out Harmony central for user comments, but all you seem to get on there are people with a grudge or people that won’t admit they have bought a pup.

Are you open for other Acoustic guitar makes? or are you set on Washburn?

Oh and good to see you on the forum.
😆