Homepage › Forums › Guitar Discussion › Guitar › New guy saying whaddup
- This topic has 25 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 9 months ago by shakedown_04092.
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June 15, 2007 at 2:04 am #24358shakedown_04092Participant
Just found this site and I’m pumped! It’s like guitar heaven here!
Brief bio:
– live in Portland, ME
– playing for almost 7 years, only 1.5 years on lead, though
– am in a cover band: http://www.myspace.com/heavydime at the moment, looking to get the original project up and running again this summer
– i’m having a custom made Languedoc replica by the folks at Resurrection Guitar Co. (http://www.resurrectionguitars.net). Here are some pics:http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_1738-1.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_1741.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_1740.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_1739-1.jpg
Anybody ever dealt with these guys at Resurrection? Seem to be pretty legit guys, and the half-dozen folks I’ve spoken with who have also ordered through them have had all good things to say.
Hope to contribute to the forum!
Thanks
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July 10, 2007 at 8:29 am #702951bassleftParticipant
If your headstock face is laquered, then that does limit your options. An inkjet slide-on over the top of a lacquer looks pretty cheesy, although it’s not a huge job to have the gloss sanded off, a logo plopped on and the face redone. If it’s a natural finish, then there’s no problem. If you’re thinking of an inlay, it’d probably be best to have it done before everything’s put together.
My guitarist chum built a guitar, his initials are AM. He made a very tasteful triangular “A” over the dip in a stylized “M” all in ebony on a maple pegface. A nice look. Or are you thinking of the maker’s logo? If they do one, I’d consider going for it. Even if it is a fairly small luthiery, it gives the guitar more provenance than a blank headstock if you decide to sell it on. Even if you don’t sell, it gets away from the “warmoth” DIY look.
This is all IMHO, and others here might have a different op.
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July 9, 2007 at 10:29 am #70291shakedown_04092Participant
Agreed, and thanks for the attempt & the heads up. I’ll keep trying next week, I guess.
Hey, here’s another question….
I am supposed to be making a decision for a decal to put on the headstock of my guitar, but I haven’t come up w/ anything that I like yet. I figure for now I’ll just leave it blank, but is this something I can maybe have done after the fact, if I find something that suits my taste later on? Thanks.
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July 9, 2007 at 7:03 am #702881bassleftParticipant
Shake, I tried messaging them at the time I placed the post above. I also got snagged with (as far as my not great German allows) “there is a problem blah blah please try later”
Very, very annoying and they really ought to sort it instead of losing customers. A shame, because I like their products and the prices are reasonable.
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July 7, 2007 at 8:37 am #70279shakedown_04092Participant
Hey 1b
thanks for the info & heads up. Tried to email them w/ my question, but for some reason their “message center” wasn’t allowing my question to go through on their website. Kept getting some weird error message written in German (which I can’t read).
I’ll try again later this week. Seems like it may be a good option.
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July 3, 2007 at 8:31 am #702871bassleftParticipant
Yes, the guitar is coming along nicely. I looked into the Keeley links because the 4-split wouldn’t do it anyway because it only has one input. The Keeley Looper looks good and reasonably priced but it’s the booster that’s increasing your costs.
Go back to the Nobels site (http://www.nobels.com/en/index.htm) and have a look at the Master Series or perhaps even the SPX31 from the same range as the 4-split. The SPX31 has individual volume settings for loop A and loop B so I think it may solve your problem. Drop them an email to discuss it. I have the split and also the pre-C box from the range and they’re solid metal construction, noise-free. Perfectly up to gigging and home studio.
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July 3, 2007 at 1:15 am #70280TimParticipant
Love the inlays!
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July 3, 2007 at 12:34 am #70293lee_UKParticipant
Tha tguitar is looking good, i do like a bit of double binding.
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July 2, 2007 at 9:24 pm #70276shakedown_04092Participant
Rec’d a couple of more pics this morning. Neck is getting glued on next, and then into the spray booth. Man, I’ll tell you what….I don’t think I was even this nervous when I first asked out my fiance on a date! Sheesh!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_031712.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/IMG_031612.jpg
Kind of bummed the 2nd one came out blurry. Oh well. I’ll post more when I get them or when it arrives.
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June 29, 2007 at 10:27 am #70286shakedown_04092Participant
Nope, nevermind….I just realized that won’t work because there’s no way to control turning the thing on/off seperately. My bad. ๐
The only other option I came up with so far is to get something like the Keeley Japanese Apartment pedal (http://www.robertkeeley.com/product.php?id=23) and a booster (http://www.robertkeeley.com/product.php?id=34) with it, that way it’s completely seperate from my chain altogether. I could leave the Mu-Tron III on at all times, along with the booster, and when I wanted to engage it, I could just stomp on the Japanes Apt. and viola! Problem is, this is appx. a $280 fix….and I’m not sure it’s even worth it at that point.
Dammit!
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June 29, 2007 at 10:20 am #70297shakedown_04092Participant
[quote=”1bassleft”]There is also the Nobels 4-splitter, which takes your mono guitar lead as the input and gives four mono outputs. I have one, and it works very well.
It’s nowadays called the split-4 and can be seen here:
http://www.nobels.com/en/index.htm[/quote]Ok…sweet.
But I have a question for ya. Here’s how my FX chain runs right now:
Gibson SG (soon to be Resurrection Fishy Hollowbody) >
Mu-Tron III >
Ernie Ball Volume Pedal >
Vox Wah >
TS808 (analogman silver mod) >
TS9 (analogman silver mod) >
MXR DynaComp (soon to be analogman BiCompROSSER) >
Boss TU2 chromatic tuner >
Boss DD-6 digital delay >
Visual Sound H20 chorus/echo pedal >
Digitech Whammy II (sometimes) >
Fender HotRod Delux (soon to be Fender Delux Reverb…I think…)Here’s my question: when I turn on the Mu-Tron III, I lose a considerable amount of volume….any ideas on how to fix this?
I’m wondering….if I grab that split-4 you speak of…..can I send one to the FX chain and loop it back to the split-4…….and then send another split to just the Mu-Tron III? My point is, I’ve been thinking of getting an EQ or booster of some sort to boost the volume of just the Mu-Tron without compromising it’s tone or integrity, but I’ll need to seperate it completely so the rest of the FX chain doesn’t get hit with the EQ/booster. Hope that makes sense….lemme know if I’ speaking swaheelee.
And thanks! ๐
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June 29, 2007 at 9:10 am #702771bassleftParticipant
There is also the Nobels 4-splitter, which takes your mono guitar lead as the input and gives four mono outputs. I have one, and it works very well.
It’s nowadays called the split-4 and can be seen here:
http://www.nobels.com/en/index.htm -
June 28, 2007 at 6:22 am #70278shakedown_04092Participant
No doubt, that sounds cool.
Well, I found a way to eliminate the need for a pesky “Y” cable:
Hard Truckers รขโฌหYรขโฌโข Stereo Junction Box รขโฌโ Eliminate the need for a รขโฌหYรขโฌโข insert cable. Specifically made for guitars with an onboard effects loop but has a multitude of uses. This hardwired junction box looks like a standard mxr size pedal that has a Stereo Input with a Mono Tip Output and a Mono Ring Input. Our junction box gives you a cleaner, clearer and more solid connection. The professional, road ready answer for your special rig. $ 69.99
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/HT_Junction_Box12.jpg
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June 25, 2007 at 8:51 am #703051bassleftParticipant
Worth installing, I’d say. I have got hold of a piezo acoustic 5-string bridge and I intend to get a Fishman Powerchip to go with it. This blends the piezo with the magnetic pickups but has another nice feature. If a stereo lead is plugged in, it diverts the piezo to ring and the mag to tip so that the two signals can be sent to different amps (I might even find that solid-stste amp suits the piezo better โ ๐ฏ ). If a mono jack is inserted, a blend of the two is sent to the tip for a normal guitar-cable-amp setup. Quite nifty (Graphtech have a similar thing going with their GHOST setup).
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June 22, 2007 at 1:31 pm #70290shakedown_04092Participant
[quote=”1bassleft”]I get it (I think). A stereo 1/4″ jack socket instead of the usual mono. Put a stereo jack in (with a Y cable to a pair of mono jacks) and the switch flicks between tip for the lead going to the pedals and ring for the other lead going straight into the amp.
I had a similar thing with a bass I nearly built but aborted. At the time, I used OD quite a lot and this always lost me bottom end, sounding like a rhythm guitar. I had an idea to build a bass with a Jazz pup near the neck leading to one jack and a Musicman pup near the bridge leading to a second socket. Two leads out; the jazz going straight to amp and the MM going to the board. If I did step on the OD, I’d still have the Jazz pup dry to give some clean bass underneath the effected bass.[/quote]
You got it (far as I know, anyways). You filled in what I neglected to say too: one cable goes to the amp, the other cable (the “Y”) to my FX board. I hope it was worth installing. It was cheap enough where it’s basically negligable, and if I don’t end up using it or if I find it’s not as helpful as I thought, I can simply disable it (not use it) and I’m back to normal.
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June 21, 2007 at 9:24 am #703031bassleftParticipant
I get it (I think). A stereo 1/4″ jack socket instead of the usual mono. Put a stereo jack in (with a Y cable to a pair of mono jacks) and the switch flicks between tip for the lead going to the pedals and ring for the other lead going straight into the amp.
I had a similar thing with a bass I nearly built but aborted. At the time, I used OD quite a lot and this always lost me bottom end, sounding like a rhythm guitar. I had an idea to build a bass with a Jazz pup near the neck leading to one jack and a Musicman pup near the bridge leading to a second socket. Two leads out; the jazz going straight to amp and the MM going to the board. If I did step on the OD, I’d still have the Jazz pup dry to give some clean bass underneath the effected bass.
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June 19, 2007 at 10:53 pm #70292shakedown_04092Participant
[quote=”1bassleft”]
The FX loop bypass switch is a new idea on me; how does that work?[/quote]Whaddup bass,
Regarding the FX loop bypass, it’s similar to having an A/B switch, I guess, except it’s right onboard the guitar. This is a feature that Jerry Garcia used on his final 4 guitars (Rosebud, Tiger, Top Hat & Lightning Bolt), and though I don’t know much about it, it was an easy add-on that I thought’d be cool to have. It just allows you to flick the switch and bypass your FX chain altogether. Now I’ve just gotta find a good “Y” cable….
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June 19, 2007 at 6:49 am #786861bassleftParticipant
Although Ed Roman can be irritating (for many reasons that lawyers might prefer me to leave unsaid), but I have no major differences with his opinions about 24-fret necks – as featured on this Resurrection – and thruneck or tenon neck construction:
http://www.edromanguitars.com/newsite/techarticles/neck_tenon.htmBass guitars have long been less conservatively made than 6-strings and I have a thruneck (birdseye koa top and back on a mahogany body, coincidentally) Jim Reed bass with sustain characteristics that don’t come out of my more vanilla bolt-ons. The tenon neck is really a thruneck but without the icky cosmetic issues that would affect an archtop.
My only slight quibble with the Resurrection is that the pups appear to be designed to just hang over the neck wood when they could’ve been settled right in there. Rather than old Gibsons, the design is an improvement on the original PRS neck join. Santana’s sustain is partly down to his guitar’s design as well as the prodigious number of knobs and switches on a Mesa Boogie.
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June 18, 2007 at 9:22 am #78663rjhalseyParticipant
That is one hell of a neck tenon. Just like the old Gibson’s. ๐
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June 18, 2007 at 7:21 am #78622shakedown_04092Participant
Sorry ’bout the double posts…..and thanks for your opinions on the axe. I was, and to some extent still, very wary of spending such an amount of $$ for a guitar, but it’s kind of like a “now or never” type situation. If I don’t do this now, I’ll probably never have the chance to do it again. So the due date is in about a month – I’ll most def post pics/reviews once I’ve had a chance to play it.
Thanks again guys!
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June 18, 2007 at 5:35 am #78667lee_UKParticipant
Im not easily impressed when it comes to other peoples Custom made guitars, and i tend not to comment, but yours is an absolute corker, a real beauty, i love the colour, shape, finish, hardware, im not too impressed with the shape of the headstock, but the rest of it is really nice.
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June 17, 2007 at 9:38 am #786031bassleftParticipant
Hello again Shake (did my welcome stuff on another thread) and glad to hear that you’re stoked about this forum. I clicked on your link and liked what I heard.
As for your guitar, I’m not familiar with Resurrection, but everything I can see in the pics looks good. Mortice+tenon neck joints are not easy, but they have great advantages over the Fender bolt-on and Gibson set-neck designs. Your Schaller pups (underrated German gear) will be in full contact with both the body and the neck. Koa and mahogany are a good compliment with both woods giving a full, warm tone. I’d be tempted to up the switchgear so that single-coil could be selected as well as the series/parallel options and (given that the rosewood bridge isn’t my favourite option) I’d be even more tempted by a Fishman under-saddle Piezo to give an acoustic flavour. Could be an “all the guitar you ever need” instrument. Can’t fault any of the hardware choices.
The FX loop bypass switch is a new idea on me; how does that work? I’m just going to type “ebony” and “trapeze” to see if the forum stops me. It shouldn’t do, unless our spam filter is blocking links to a pornsite featuring African-American naked gymnasts ๐ฏ โ
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June 17, 2007 at 12:35 am #78702shakedown_04092Participant
Here’s what it’ll look like finished:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q127/shakedown_04092/Music%20Equiptment/FISHY.jpg
She’s all Koa on the front & back, with Mahogony sides, Piece Flame Maple / Rosewood Neck, Custom Rosewood Bridge, Mother-of-Pearl Vertical Inlays (not like the ones shown, mine will be vertical bars on the bass side of the fretboard), Corian Nut, Ebbony Fretboard, Chrome Schaller Tuners, Custom Rosewood Bridge, Custom Ebbony Trapieze Tailpiece, 24 frets, 2 Schaller Golden 50รขโฌโขs Pick-ups, 1 Volume / 1 Tone / 3-Way Switch w/ Series Parallel Switches. I am also having them install an effects loop bypass jack/switch so I can bypass the pedal board altogether.
PS – do you guys realize that I have to spell Ebbony and Trapieze wrong because these words are “forbidden” in this system? What’s the deal w/ that?
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June 16, 2007 at 6:34 pm #70143lee_UKParticipant
Hi Shakedown, looks like a very nice guitar, what kind of paint job is it going to have on it??
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June 15, 2007 at 10:25 am #70167shakedown_04092Participant
Thanks, and will do! Like I said, I’m psyched to be here! Hope to learn a lot from you guys and hopefully contribute some myself.
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June 15, 2007 at 10:05 am #78630MichaelParticipant
Hey Shakedown, welcome to the boards.
The guitars on Resurrection’s site looks quite nice. Keep us updated on yours.
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