Trasher, I saw your other prob thread. Sorry, I’ve been too tied up to reply and I don’t think I can relly help. I don’t know enough about hhow it’s set up. I can suggest you check the wiring diagrams on the “Guitar Electronics” site. I’m sure they have something that’ll work.

Off the top of my head, replacing the 5-way with a 7-way may help. Or not. 😕

Thrasher, glad to help some way. With all those SD pups, you may find http://www.seymourduncan.com/website/support/seymours_q_and_a_10.shtml#543 of some use (it is very brief, though).

First off, a 😳 -my bad- confession. Disregard what I posted about the capacitor on the tone pot. I was talking only from what I know of bass guitar and wrote a sentence or two on lead guitars that I know nothing about. A quick search told me that my assumption that humbuckers = 0.047uF could easily be wrong. Because the cap affects the frequency of the cut, their use in bass and lead are two different things. If the uF of your cap is clearly labelled (and you like the tone) you could buy a direct replacement (suggest Sprague Orange Drops). If it isn’t, you could either try the 22 and the 47 and decide by ear, or shift your old cap across. It’s the pots that are giving you grief, after all.

Also, seems like the Fender bags are CTS. Beware, though, some eBay sellers who have unused Mex components. These are probably not CTS. That “Axes R us” site is a British company and you’ll notice their £ prices are higher than GuitarElectronics $ price. Don’t forget that £1 = nearly $2 so don’t buy from a British site. Another good US site is guitarpartsresource.com

Slight confusion on push/pull, push/push and dual concentric pots. I haven’t checked this out fully so I risk another 😳 correction, but I think this is mostly right… The pot that saves you drilling another hole is the dual concentric. This has two sets of terminals, two independent shafts and is fitted with a wide, base ring and a tall, top knob. It allows you to do vol/vol or vol/tone from one hole rout.

The push/pull and push/push have a different function to the concentric, and are not intended for vol/vol etc. AFAIK (anybody disagree, please chime in 💡 ) these two do the same thing in a different way. You can ignore this bit; they are both double pole, double throw (DPDT) switches.

You know about the push/pull. The push/push works in the same way as an amp’s footswitch; click-Channel A, click again-channel B. It’s handy for coil-tapping (SC vs HB), parallel vs serial and suchlike. You may want to consider this with a HB-loaded guitar like yours.

Finally, all that active, 9V stuff. This is my personal op…The overdrive ones I’d skip on. Easier to step on a pedal. The EQ ones, that’s a matter of taste. Active EQ is rare on a guitar but de riguer on a modern bass. If you’re happy setting up your tone using the passive controls on the body and the amplifier, then you can skip it. Bass players are never happy, noodling endlessly with their bass/treble/mid cut/boost knobs. Me, I rely on nice amps instead. I do like active onboards, but mostly because the output impedance is so low I can now walk from the back of the stage where my amp’s been put and strut my ego out front 😉 Unless you’ve really been unhappy with your guitar’s tone, I think you can live without one for now.

Long post, apols to all.
1BL

Thrasher, having got your refund, you only need to visit that store once more. Print this thread off onto suitably thick card to roll into a tube, find that “tech” then shove the tube firmly into the orifice that most appeals to you.

OK, moving along, if you know what you want, then the ‘net is a good place to go. It is well worth visiting Guitarelectronics and having a look at their wiring diagrams. Even I understand them, and I’m no Master of the Sparks, believe me (dias are printable, too). To save you a coupla clicks, here’s the pots page:
http://guitarelectronics.zoovy.com/category/20electronicparts.2controlpots/

You’ll notice the ‘non-existant’ 500k linear pot is alive, well, and $3.95 for a CTS. If you’re going to the trouble of desoldering, resoldering and all that, I’d buy CTS for a few dollars more overall. It’s going to take you an afternoon’s work, so why skimp? “Fender” bagged pots I’m not sure about. The USA guitars use CTS but the Baja Mexico ones don’t so I bet the “Fender” pots are the cheaper variety. The long-shafts are for bodies with a rear-rout, the norms are for a scratchplate/control plate type.

You are absolutely right to stick to a linear pot for the tone control. Vol controls use a logarithmic (aka audio taper) pot because the ear’ole doesn’t hear output in a linear way. If a 100W amp on full is blimmin’ loud, a 50W amp on full isn’t “half as blimmin’ loud” – it’s still “blimmin’ loud”, only 3db quieter in fact. So, a volume pot has a big effect from 0-2 and 8-10 and less so from 3-7. I hate a log pot on the tone control – it’s like an on/off switch. In this case, no effect/total treble cut. A linear pot makes much more sense, as the ear’ole detects pitch changes much better than vol changes.

If you’re all-out replacing, then you might as well get a new tone cap. I presume your original is a 0.047 micro-farad, and that would be the replacement to get. The 22 is a more twangy-Fender-SC-50s cap.

it’s worth a note to those who dont know, Volume and Tone pots cost around £2-£3 each, and thats for the good quality ones, to sell someone a couple of these who has just bought a set of quailty pups is a bit mean.

👿 👿 Guitar Store Salespeople 👿 👿

What is it with them 🙄 They have, surely, one of the better jobs that they could expect to get? Worth doing some homework on? Apparently not, so I’m not surprised that you got thrown some 250k pots for high-output humbuckers. Out of interest, are they quality, like CTS? If so, I’d take them back and demand proper replacements. If they’re just something in a poly bag, chances are you’d be replacing Korean 500k pots with Chinese 250k pots. In this case, I’d still take them back to the store. Then I’d shove them into the earholes of said store assistant.

By convention, 250k suits a single coil and 500k suits a humbucker. Not to say that this shouldn’t be played with, but I wouldn’t bother doing it with Chinapots. With the tone control, the resistance of the pot and the micro-farad value of the capacitor combine to determine what frequency range is cut, and by how much.

Dont forget, the 250k pots are genrally used for tone pots, although the higher output pups you are using will require 500k pots you will still need the 250’s for your tone. Sounds like a very good set-up though, anybody in the world know more about pickups than Seymour?? i doubt it.