Bumping this thread because there’s some good advice here.

[quote=”Hublocker”]I have a Yamaha FG 130 I bought new in Japan in 1973.

Sounds great, but I have always found the action high, despite putting a lower better bridge on it earlier this year.

I have a cool even older Red Label FG 150 I got in 1970, and that neck and action has always been easier to play.

Each has it own tonal characteristics, but I have recently realized in a play-off between the two that the FG 130, which was a cheaper guitar, actually has a fuller sound. The FG 150 is a bit brighter, but does not have a nice mid or bass response.

Anyway, this is a simple question actually:

Which way to I adjust the truss rod to creat more of an arch in the neck to lower the action?

Put the wrench on and adjust towards the high E string?

Or turn towards the low E string?[/quote]

Clockwise while looking at the truss rod will tighten it i.e., lowers the action; Anticlockwise is the reverse.

Go easy – do not adjust more than a quarter turn at one time.

Also look up the word ‘Gingerly’ and ‘Gnats c0ck’ . 😆

‘Loosen’ it – if the rod adjustment nut is getting harder to turn you are turning it the wrong way.

BTW this is to create more of an ‘arch’ (sometimes called ‘relief’) in the neck – it will not lower the action.

Lowering the action ‘can’ be achieved by making the truss rod tighter, but may cause fret buzz.

Lowering the action is accomplished by reducing the saddle height or planing the bridge or by having the neck ‘reset’ (expensive), or by a combination of these things.

Lessening the truss-rod tension (thereby increasing neck relief or ‘bow’) will definately NOT lower the action (more likely the opposite in fact), but may enable you to shave a bit more off the saddle without encountering fret buzz.